Viaje! The further adventures of Jenn & Alan: This town doesn't souk -- and other adventures from Morocco

Steve, Alan, and I returned from a five-day trek to Morocco yesterday. No words can possibly convey the feeling of being plunged into chaos as you enter Jemaa El Fnaa, Marrakesh's main square, at dusk. It means Place of the Dead, though it's anything but: motor scooters whiz by in front of you, behind you, while snake chamers charm, pick pocketers pick, and men in jellabas gather around professional storytellers, savory smoke rising from the food stalls. I wish there was some way I could upload the perpetual smell of motor oil, dust, tumeric, and lamb kebabs that soaks into your clothing and hair. If only there were some way to explain why, in the mazelike souks that spread like tiny capilaries through the Medina, it's impossible not to get lost or get out without buying something, and how it feels, when you enter those dark, narrow passageways, like a metaphysical journey as well as a physical one. If only I had a recording of the breathtaking sounds of kids drumming and women ululating filling the night air during the Muslim New Year celebration, the peals of thunder and crack of lightning the following night and the way the rain sounded as it hit the red tarp that covered the center courtyard of the the Riad Nejma Lounge, where we stayed. Everyone should be so lucky to receive the warm and heartfelt hospitality we experienced in the hands of our Riad's co-proprietor, Pierre. And I haven't even gotten to the fish stalls, tattered feral cats, and tiny craftsmen's studios in Essouaira, where we passed a night, purchased many a gift, and feasted on the freshest grilled fish you could imagine. (I snuck some to the cats.) And the palaces! I must not forget the amazing palaces, with their beautiful mosaics and astonishingly tall walls. And the fact that I apparently can't speak French any more. And, and, and ...

I must say a word of thanks to our dear friend Alison Bing, author of Lonely Planet's upcoming Best of Marrakesh. We followed every word of her advice and she never once led us astray (can't say that for the foolish dribble of Time Out's guide). Alison is one of these scarily talented people, who speaks multiple languages (including Arabic) and not only worked relentlessly to explore and uncover every last hidden gem of the city, but her writing is a pleasure to read and her taste is above reproach. Everyone who goes to Marrakesh must buy her book!

Incidently, this is the second Muslim country I've visited since 9/11 and I have to say it was no problem at all being from the USA. Everyone we met wanted to know where we were from. When we told them, we were always warmly welcomed. In the souks we were frequently offered "democratic prices." Obviously, it's a different story in some parts of the Muslim world, but in Morocco as well as Malaysia I always felt comfortable, safe, and honored to experience such a rich and wonderful tradition up front.

And with that, I'll leave you with a few more of our favorite images from the trip.